Waiting for Ganesha Festival

Many people have asked me how it was to drive in Hyderabad and if it was common to see cows or other animals on the road. To say the truth, I haven't met any cows since I have been riding my bike.

But, recently, on the way to the office, I have met thousands of elephants. They don't disturb too much the traffic as they sit quietly on the side of the road. One day I took my courage with 2 hands* and decided to stop on the road to capture them with my camera.

* French expression - but I am sure you will know what I mean

I was quite surprised to observe a child, walking by all these elephants, showing no sign of fear or anxiety...

It is true that when you have a closer look, they look quite sympathic...

oooooh... but they are not real elephants...

They are statues of Lord Ganesh...

Incredible. I was probably driving too fast to notice...

Thousands and thousands of statues, made of plaster of Paris... it looks like something big is going to happen soon... And yes, Hyderabad holds the second biggest (in terms of numbers of statues) Ganesha festival in all India after Mumbai. Last year, 15,000 statues were installed on decored platforms and under tents all over the city...

Lord Ganesh is the God of prosperity, wisdom, and good fortune and is a popular god in India. The statues are worshipped during the time of the festival (around 10 days) but the last day of the festival marks the biggest celebration. The 15,000 statues are immerged in water bodies, including the Hussain Sagar lake in Hyderabad city centre.

What do the fish do when they meet the elephants??

(drawing from Johann Sfar)

Un petit vent de paresse... Some laziness in the air?

Avant que je ne rentre en France pour des vacances bien meritees, quelques instantanes des deux derniers mois de ma vie en Inde dans le desordre...

Time flies - a snapshot of what I have done for the last 2 months - when I was not writing the blog....

Cooking rotis at home ...

First try Another try, 2 months after

Inviting my lovely neighbours Raju and Ammu for a French/Spanish/Italian dinner...

Ammu and I - laughing at Raju

Ammu and Raju (who tries to make the "bad boy")

Trying a sari for the first time...

with Mukesh in Basra (the village where I work in Haryana) (left)

And photographing bhabhi in Basra... I love this picture!

Phool Vatti in India

Namaste ji!

I am back from 10 days spent in the village of Basra, in Haryana, just 2 km from Rajasthan in Northwest India.

Views of the fields and village

I had a fantastic time. I was staying in the house of the family of Pawan, who was our local contact and guide in the village - and sometimes interpreter when it was too difficult for Kaifi, my interpreter, to understand bagri (local dialect of Rajasthani).
From left to right: Kaifi, Pawan, Vinod, Pawan's uncle, and Pawan's mother in the fields

I learnt how to cook roti (a kind of round flat bread) with Bhabbi, Pawan's sister-in-law. She was very patient with me, never complaining about the strange shapes of my rotis...

Bhabbi prepared some scrumptious special dishes when I was here: halwa, khir and bajra roti (roti made from pearl millet flour)...

There was also Mukesh, who was living next door and was teaching me Hindi with a children's book. The word to learn the vowel U was Ullu (an owl). If one day you go to India and want to make people laugh, say Ullu for a try... or is it just me who has a funny face when I say Ullu?? Anyway, Ullu quickly became my favorite hindi word...

Mukesh also taught me a Hindi song (fortunately, the lyrics did not mention any owl). There were also some great inter-musical exchanges with Nirmala, Pawan's niece. I learnt a Rajasthani song. And Nirmala now can sing "Frere Jacques"...

(drawing from Uderzo)

After work, we had a lot of fun in the fields:

Our favourite game... 1,2,3...run!

I did the same game on the back of a camel

Last day, after a big meal in the house of Rajkumar, our sympathic local driver, we went altogether for a trip to Agroha Dham, one of the largest temple I ever visited. In this temple, you can drop a coin to animate some singing deities (a bit like in the Galeries Lafayettes/Fenwick during Christmas), get lost and scare your friends in an artificial cave of several floors, it is much more fun than to visit a church...

Going to the temple...

From left to right: Nirmala, me, Kaifi, Radj Kumar, our taxi driver, and Surender, a friend of Pawan

Next episode to come soon!

In the meantime, visit Agroha Dham temple: http://www.agroha.com/temple.html

And prepare Indian dishes at home:
Halwa: http://www.indianetzone.com/2/sweet_halwa.htm,
khir: http://www.koausa.org/Cookbook/165.html
Bajra roti: http://www.tarladalal.com/recipe.asp?id=3892

Merry Holi festival!

I could not go to bed tonight without publishing something about Holi. Holi is the festival of colours, it is one of the most ancient festivals celebrated in India which announces the venue of spring. Curious readers can go on http://www.holifestival.org/ for more information.


This morning, I noticed a few unusual stalls on the way... like this one.


At first, I thought it was a toys stand, with all these bright colours.


But getting closer, I saw that what this guy was selling was a mysterious coloured powder. This afternoon I understood what the powder was for...



Some days, there is a merry ambiance at IWMI office...

Why my flat is (almost) perfect

1. It is beautiful. Yes. Come and see.

2. It is located in the heart of Hyderabad city centre – an unique opportunity to discover this fantastic city. Plus it is just next to the MMTS (local train like Paris RER) station. A great experience during peak time.

3. It is quiet – every day you can “do the fat morning” if you like (French expression to say you sleep till very late)

4. For my English friends and other beer amateurs, a famous pub (with incredible beer hmmm hmmm) is just downstairs. Ban Viet nam oi, o pub nay co karaoke, den day di de hat nhe!

5. It is close to multiple small shops (Francophones, see previous post “Une invitation au voyage”), to Hyderabad Central shopping mall, and the very popular Big Bazaar. More seriously, it is 5 mn auto from the great and unique Hyderabad film club!

6. All my neighbours are Indian – you will be completely immerged in Indian culture.

7. I guarantee NO MOSQUITOES. Even at night with lights on and windows opened.

8. Believe it or not, in this flat, there is a nice guide who can bring you breakfeast in the morning (extra charge for service in bed) and try to entertain you during your stay

Ok, I admit. There is one thing missing.
The swimming pool of ICRISAT...

(but swimming-addicted, there are nevertheless two swimming pools nearby)

come into my flat...

The nacelle and the muggulu

And here you are... Welcome !!!!

Closer and closer from my flat....

The avenue - the traffic is very quiet cause it is only 7 am... Behind the big red add is White House....

and behind White House....

This is my building... beautiful isn't it?

pictures of my neighbourhood, Ameerpet

You will find it everywhere... on the right, the very popular chai* stall and a snapshot of a few shops (below)
* Indian perfumed very sweeeeet tea






A newspaper stall (on the right) and a
Hindu temple (below)

Invitation au voyage

Pour venir me rendre visite....

Une rue en zig-zag, poussiéreuse, large et bruyante, riche en couleurs et où l’on trouve pêle-mêle

au hasard du chemin, des paniers et des colliers de fleurs blanches et oranges pour les pujas, des corbeilles de graines multicolores sur les étals des vendeurs de puris, le chai. Des intrusions d’Occident. Pour les gourmands, les glaces Baskin Robbins, un petit supermarché propret avec quelques merveilles du bout du monde, du vinaigre balsamique, de l’huile d’olive, du chocolat. Mais l’Inde revient en force. De l’autre côté de la route, un temple, un restaurant de tiffins, une boutique de bonbons au ghee, de vins, d’électronique, des échoppes chamarrées de matelas, de rideaux, de saris… et le chai.

Un groupe d’hommes attend le bus. Les bus s’arrêtent à peine, les portes restent toujours ouvertes, juste le temps de s’y agripper et de monter. Des femmes en sari ornées de colliers et de bracelets déambulent lentement, seules ou en groupe. Elles sourient, on a envie de les suivre.

Puis, une grande avenue avec un pont qui s’envole vers le ciel. Il faut faire une prière avant de traverser… Sur le côté, se dresse Lifestyle et White House, des boutiques de vêtements branchées. On peut y croiser de jeunes Indiennes maquillées, lunettes de soleil, jeans et kortas. On s’enfile dans une ruelle qui débouche sur un parking et un immeuble blanc carré un peu défraîchi. Deux ascenseurs avec des grilles, mais on peut aussi prendre l’escalier, car l’appartement est au premier étage.

Dans le couloir, une nacelle de jardin. Personne ne s’y assoit, cela n’a pas d’importance. Elle vous rappelle qu’ici, il ne faut pas courir après le temps. Le temps on le perd tout le temps, alors il ne faut pas essayer de le garder pour soi. Quand vous viendrez, avant de frapper à ma porte, posez vos sacs et balancez-vous quelques instants. Peut-être vous remarquerez les muggulus dessinés au sol. Ou vous vous endormirez après un long voyage rêvant des mille délices que vous réserve votre visite en Inde.

A modest ode to West Bengal

West Bengal is bewitching

And Kolkata is its Queen

The city of Joy breathes deeply and quietly,
Following secret and silent rhythms.
Listen! Smell! Her song exhales her history.
Her words utter an invitation for the pilgrim
To melt down in her arms and never return.

West Bengal is exalted
And Kolkata is its true spirit.

Peasants, merchants and thinkers, how many of your dreams,
How many of your voices have swollen the Howgly?
Stop! See! Her flow roars endlessly.
Her cadence is a reminder for the pilgrim
To stand up at her side and never resign.


West Bengal is savoury
And Kolkata is its delicacy

Her flavours are never sharp, never bitter, never sour.
They come from the earth, from the rivers and from the sea.
Taste! Enjoy! Close your eyes…
Her savours are a joy for the pilgrims.
They are now gathered and forgot the fatigue of their long journey.

(drawings from Rabindranath Tagore)

2009

What will 2009 be made of?
Que sera 2009?
Mais que va-t-il donc se passer en 2009?

Mmmmh....

I don't know yet but...

2009 has started pretty well. For sure, there has been a strong movement of the stars and planets in my favour!



Suddenly, I have been moving out of my "lost-in-transition" state. In one week, I have managed to:

- find a very nice flat, perfectly located in the city centre;

- buy the motorbike of my dreams.... and get my "learner's license"! In one month, I will get the full driving license (beware Hyderabad unhabitants!);

- open a bank account after harassing the bank staff for 1 month; and

- get all my luggage (almost) delivered at ICRISAT after 2 months of intense negotiation with the shipping company and ICRISAT - and half a day of paperwork at the airport.

How did it happen...???

This, I know!

Because I got a magical card.

The Indian ID card - which gives me the Indian citizenship. I received it just before I come back to France for Christmas - that was a very nice Christmas gift.

Photos of the flat and motorbike below:



The flat is on the first floor, in a big building close to the main road, but very quiet.

(Val, the guy standing on the right, and the furniture are not included...)




and the bike (driver not included either)...


It is not a beautiful bike, actually it has been designed for rural areas to carry heavy loads... but I like it! It is not too big but still has four stroke- and I know with it I can take all my friends for a ride in the city - no weight restriction!

Tomorrow I leave for 5 weeks to the North, Uttar Pradesh then Haryana for 1 week, and then West Bengal for 4 weeks. So no blog during this time but I will come back with a lot to tell!!!

Oh, and I almost forgot to give the results of the test... Djohar is the salutation term in Santhal (see: http://www.johar.in/story.php and http://wesanthals.tripod.com/)!

So, johar and see you soon!