Phool Vatti in India

Namaste ji!

I am back from 10 days spent in the village of Basra, in Haryana, just 2 km from Rajasthan in Northwest India.

Views of the fields and village

I had a fantastic time. I was staying in the house of the family of Pawan, who was our local contact and guide in the village - and sometimes interpreter when it was too difficult for Kaifi, my interpreter, to understand bagri (local dialect of Rajasthani).
From left to right: Kaifi, Pawan, Vinod, Pawan's uncle, and Pawan's mother in the fields

I learnt how to cook roti (a kind of round flat bread) with Bhabbi, Pawan's sister-in-law. She was very patient with me, never complaining about the strange shapes of my rotis...

Bhabbi prepared some scrumptious special dishes when I was here: halwa, khir and bajra roti (roti made from pearl millet flour)...

There was also Mukesh, who was living next door and was teaching me Hindi with a children's book. The word to learn the vowel U was Ullu (an owl). If one day you go to India and want to make people laugh, say Ullu for a try... or is it just me who has a funny face when I say Ullu?? Anyway, Ullu quickly became my favorite hindi word...

Mukesh also taught me a Hindi song (fortunately, the lyrics did not mention any owl). There were also some great inter-musical exchanges with Nirmala, Pawan's niece. I learnt a Rajasthani song. And Nirmala now can sing "Frere Jacques"...

(drawing from Uderzo)

After work, we had a lot of fun in the fields:

Our favourite game... 1,2,3...run!

I did the same game on the back of a camel

Last day, after a big meal in the house of Rajkumar, our sympathic local driver, we went altogether for a trip to Agroha Dham, one of the largest temple I ever visited. In this temple, you can drop a coin to animate some singing deities (a bit like in the Galeries Lafayettes/Fenwick during Christmas), get lost and scare your friends in an artificial cave of several floors, it is much more fun than to visit a church...

Going to the temple...

From left to right: Nirmala, me, Kaifi, Radj Kumar, our taxi driver, and Surender, a friend of Pawan

Next episode to come soon!

In the meantime, visit Agroha Dham temple: http://www.agroha.com/temple.html

And prepare Indian dishes at home:
Halwa: http://www.indianetzone.com/2/sweet_halwa.htm,
khir: http://www.koausa.org/Cookbook/165.html
Bajra roti: http://www.tarladalal.com/recipe.asp?id=3892

Merry Holi festival!

I could not go to bed tonight without publishing something about Holi. Holi is the festival of colours, it is one of the most ancient festivals celebrated in India which announces the venue of spring. Curious readers can go on http://www.holifestival.org/ for more information.


This morning, I noticed a few unusual stalls on the way... like this one.


At first, I thought it was a toys stand, with all these bright colours.


But getting closer, I saw that what this guy was selling was a mysterious coloured powder. This afternoon I understood what the powder was for...



Some days, there is a merry ambiance at IWMI office...

Why my flat is (almost) perfect

1. It is beautiful. Yes. Come and see.

2. It is located in the heart of Hyderabad city centre – an unique opportunity to discover this fantastic city. Plus it is just next to the MMTS (local train like Paris RER) station. A great experience during peak time.

3. It is quiet – every day you can “do the fat morning” if you like (French expression to say you sleep till very late)

4. For my English friends and other beer amateurs, a famous pub (with incredible beer hmmm hmmm) is just downstairs. Ban Viet nam oi, o pub nay co karaoke, den day di de hat nhe!

5. It is close to multiple small shops (Francophones, see previous post “Une invitation au voyage”), to Hyderabad Central shopping mall, and the very popular Big Bazaar. More seriously, it is 5 mn auto from the great and unique Hyderabad film club!

6. All my neighbours are Indian – you will be completely immerged in Indian culture.

7. I guarantee NO MOSQUITOES. Even at night with lights on and windows opened.

8. Believe it or not, in this flat, there is a nice guide who can bring you breakfeast in the morning (extra charge for service in bed) and try to entertain you during your stay

Ok, I admit. There is one thing missing.
The swimming pool of ICRISAT...

(but swimming-addicted, there are nevertheless two swimming pools nearby)

come into my flat...

The nacelle and the muggulu

And here you are... Welcome !!!!

Closer and closer from my flat....

The avenue - the traffic is very quiet cause it is only 7 am... Behind the big red add is White House....

and behind White House....

This is my building... beautiful isn't it?

pictures of my neighbourhood, Ameerpet

You will find it everywhere... on the right, the very popular chai* stall and a snapshot of a few shops (below)
* Indian perfumed very sweeeeet tea






A newspaper stall (on the right) and a
Hindu temple (below)

Invitation au voyage

Pour venir me rendre visite....

Une rue en zig-zag, poussiéreuse, large et bruyante, riche en couleurs et où l’on trouve pêle-mêle

au hasard du chemin, des paniers et des colliers de fleurs blanches et oranges pour les pujas, des corbeilles de graines multicolores sur les étals des vendeurs de puris, le chai. Des intrusions d’Occident. Pour les gourmands, les glaces Baskin Robbins, un petit supermarché propret avec quelques merveilles du bout du monde, du vinaigre balsamique, de l’huile d’olive, du chocolat. Mais l’Inde revient en force. De l’autre côté de la route, un temple, un restaurant de tiffins, une boutique de bonbons au ghee, de vins, d’électronique, des échoppes chamarrées de matelas, de rideaux, de saris… et le chai.

Un groupe d’hommes attend le bus. Les bus s’arrêtent à peine, les portes restent toujours ouvertes, juste le temps de s’y agripper et de monter. Des femmes en sari ornées de colliers et de bracelets déambulent lentement, seules ou en groupe. Elles sourient, on a envie de les suivre.

Puis, une grande avenue avec un pont qui s’envole vers le ciel. Il faut faire une prière avant de traverser… Sur le côté, se dresse Lifestyle et White House, des boutiques de vêtements branchées. On peut y croiser de jeunes Indiennes maquillées, lunettes de soleil, jeans et kortas. On s’enfile dans une ruelle qui débouche sur un parking et un immeuble blanc carré un peu défraîchi. Deux ascenseurs avec des grilles, mais on peut aussi prendre l’escalier, car l’appartement est au premier étage.

Dans le couloir, une nacelle de jardin. Personne ne s’y assoit, cela n’a pas d’importance. Elle vous rappelle qu’ici, il ne faut pas courir après le temps. Le temps on le perd tout le temps, alors il ne faut pas essayer de le garder pour soi. Quand vous viendrez, avant de frapper à ma porte, posez vos sacs et balancez-vous quelques instants. Peut-être vous remarquerez les muggulus dessinés au sol. Ou vous vous endormirez après un long voyage rêvant des mille délices que vous réserve votre visite en Inde.